Today, two crafty Arctic predators shall feast on walrus

RONALD BROWER

April 18, 2008 at 12:18PM AKST

For The Arctic Sounder

The boat glides smoothly around the landscape of jagged ice floes with hardly a ripple in the silver ocean.

The sounds of the engine are muffled by the ice surrounding the boat as it slips past another floating berg.

The crew is alert, watching for any dark shadow moving amongst the silvery shadows of the gently drifting ice.

As far as one can see, white ice reflects varied shadows on the calm sea of the Arctic Ocean.

The Inuit hunters scout for the dark shadow of the stealthy ugruk to show its face. Even just a glimpse will stir excitement, and just as stealthily, the chase is on.

"Over there!" The hunter on the left catches a glimpse of a massive red-tinted face gliding between two ice bergs a short distance from the crew.

Quietly, the boat glides toward the ripples left by the massive head of the male ugruk as it dove. Talking in whispers, the crew takes their appointed positions in the small craft.

The slightest noise from the boat will cause the magnificent sea mammal to flee away from the hunters.

Where will this giant bearded seal, a big male, surface next?

The young novice hunter accidentally kicks an oar, banging it against the boat. The cautious sea creature is not seen again.

All are quiet. Silence speaks the harshest reprimand.

"Those big ones are always hard to catch," comments the hunter behind the young man, cooling the atmosphere of the tension of lost opportunity.

"Time for lunch!" the captain cheerfully declares.

Killing the sound of the engine, the small crew of five hunters chat excitedly about the big one that got away as they each pull their taquaq (food for the hunt).

"Sailor Boy crackers go good with Spam. Pass the butter and some tea," someone says.

"That ugruk would not taste good anyway. Did you see how red the face is? That red face means it is mating," said another.

"Here’s some dried fish too. The meat will smell like gas, no good to eat. Male seals are like that. Some coffee?"

"Yes, Thanks. Got cream or sugar?"

"Yep, right here. Aah! This is life! What a nice day to hunt!"

When sila (weather) is good, it is so refreshing to be out here in the calm of the Arctic Ocean. It appeases the mind.

To the keen observer of sila, it looks like it will be good for several more days.

This is always a good time to hunt sea mammals. If one is fortunate it is also a good time to get ugruk for skins needed in next year’s whale hunt.

For this crew, it is a luxury to enjoy camaraderie and a leisurely meal out at sea.

What an awesome feeling to share: calm oceans, drifting ice and sun shining above. But be aware, traditional wisdom warns not to take things for granted.

Sila could change for the worst without warning.

"Oh that smell! What is that? Walrus! Only walrus smell like that. Maybe we should go that way."

"Well, we could use the meat."

The crew slowly repacks the food and prepares for the hunt.

On a large floe a darkened area on the ice mark the walrus in the distant horizon. This large floe has broken off from a larger one where it piled up on one end.

The boat moves closer to the new prey slowly weaving between the smaller drifting icebergs.

They approach under the cover of the piled-up ice and slowly come into view of their quarry. Staying low, they find a good spot to scout from and select which walrus to shoot.

Suddenly one of the shooters freezes, pointing toward the piled up ice.

"See it? There – a polar bear is intently surveying the herd too!" he says.

All stay quiet and observe the great bear’s movement. All at once the entire herd of walrus dives, unaware of both the hunters and the polar bear.

After a while, the herd surfaces and climbs on the flat ice. Bellies look full.

The walrus chatter and fuss amongst each other. Some quickly doze off into the slumber of a full belly.

The crew is focused on the bear as he dodges between ice crevices.

Suddenly he emerges moving with his hind up toward the walrus and stops behind a chunk of ice.

With his head low to the ice he studies the closer walrus and focuses on one.

The bear turns and lifts up the chunk of ice. He turns his hind and backs up to a larger piece of ice closer to the walrus nearest to him.

With his nose close to the ground he observes the prey. It lowers its head and seems to dose off. The bear pushes on the ice and tries to lift it up. There, he did it!

Lifting the chunk of ice, he starts walking toward the sleeping walrus. It suddenly stops as a bark sounds.

Other walrus give warning but this one slumbers heavily under a full belly. Soon all is quiet.

The bear again picks up the ice and walks it closer to the sleeping walrus.

Putting it down once more, he rests on his haunches and keeps his head hidden. Now he makes his final move.

Carrying the heavy chunk of ice forward, he suddenly drops it on the head of the sleeping walrus.

It never wakes from its deep slumber. This is a highly unusual hunting maneuver, rarely observed of a polar bear.

What a hunter. The other walrus hunters can only watch in great awe. The other walrus hardly spook, and some continue to slumber amid warning barks.

Snapping out of the dreamlike experience, the captain orders the shooters to fire.

Three shots roar, driving the walrus herd into an excited frenzy to escape these hunters.

The polar bear runs over the piled ice for cover.

Four walrus lay dead on this ice floe. More than what they hoped for. Shaking in fear, the polar bear returns and watches from a distance.

The captain offers a prayer of thanks to the great power who is the master of the sea.

With a humbled voice he thanks the great spirit of the polar bear for sharing his hunting skills and his kill.

This crew shall leave some of the bounty for the other walrus hunter. They have plenty of meat to share and bushels of clams to boot.

Today they have more than a hunt to share. What a tale they shall pass on to their kindred.

They saw a walrus hunter the likes of which one may never see again.

He is a kindred spirit. This day, the two top predators of the Arctic shall feast on walrus.

Ronald H. Brower Sr. teaches the Inupiaq language at the Alaska Native Language Center, University of Alaska Fairbanks, where he also is a student.